BLTC Press Titles

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The Story of Doctor Dolittle

Hugh Lofting

The Fairy Tale of the Green Snake and the Beautiful Lily

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Thomas Carlyle, Rudolf Steiner

The Art of Worldly Wisdom

Baltasar Gracian

Knowledge of Higher Worlds and its Attainment

Rudolf Steiner

A lonely summer in Kashmir

by Margaret Cotter Morison



" Jones " Frontispiece

The Chenar Bagh, Srinagar .... To face pap ix

A Temple in Srinagar ..... „ i

The Mar Canal, Srinagar „ 3

House-Boat and Cook-Boat .... „ 5

View of the Takht-i-Suleiman .... „ 7

Kashmir Villagers „ 14

River above Srinagar „ 18

The Temple of Payech „ 18

Kashmiri Boatman „ 21

Kashmiri Boat Folk „ 25

Islamabad ........ „ 28

The Ruins of Martand „ 66

Fakirs „ 71

"Jones" „ 75

Goats at Pahlgam „ 84

Boy with Buffalo „ 84

Boy and Goat ....... „ 94

A Bridge over the Liddar ..... „ 94

Making ready for the march .... „ 103

Loaded for the march „ 103

View from the foot of Kolohoi . . . . „ 115

Snow Bridge over Torrent . . . . . „ 115 Irrigation Well To face page 144

House on a Canal ...... „ 146

Women Washing by the Bank .... „ 146

A Sweet Shop „ 148

View from the Circular Road, Gulmarg . . „ 158

A Doonga ....... „ 192

A Boat Girl „ 194

Kashmiri Boat Woman ..... „ 197

Balti Carriers in the Sind Valley ... „ 202

Ruined Temples in the Wangat Valley . . „ 2O2

Avalanche in the Sind Valley .... „ 205

The Sind Valley „ 216

Camping near Haramuk ..... „ 225

View of Haramuk from the Gangabal Lake . „ 225

Fishing on the Jhelum „ 250

Rice Boats on the River „ 250

Village by the Jhelum „ 252

Near the Wular Lake „ 252

A Kashmir Bridge „ 255

Houses by the River, Srinagar .... „ 255

The Lai Mundi, above Srinagar .... „ 257

Canal in the Dhal „ 261

Water-Course in the Nishat Bagh ... „ 261

A Canal Scene, Srinagar ..... „ 265

The Pir Panjal Pass into Kashmir ... „ 267

Bridge at Kohala, with Tonga in Foreground . „ 269

Rest-House at Dulai (" Honeymoon Cottage ") . „ 270

Rest-House at Uri „ 270


In giving these recollections of a lonely summer spent in Kashmir to the public, I feel that more than a passing word of apology is needed for the egoistic tone running through them ; with the best will in the word to eliminate it, the first person singular reappears with monotonous frequency. There are several reasons which partly account for, but cannot totally excuse this. In the first place, the very essence of travelling in an undeveloped country tends to selfishness; a wanderer in Europe can give his whole mind and time to the historic sights around him, and sink himself in his surroundings, secure of finding ample supply of food and shelter when he returns to his hotel at night. In sparsely civilised countries it is different; the would-be explorer spends weeks beforehand making careful plans for his own comfort and security, and he who caters for himself best, far from being despised for his egoism, receives ungrudging admiration from all similarly situated travellers. The whole reason and object of his surrounding body-guard seems to be to minister to his comfort; for him heavily loaded coolies toil daily along mountain paths, tired servants hurry to prepare his food at night; the very scenery seems turned on for his pleasure. It is almost impossible in such surroundings for him not to fall into the prevailing illusion that he is a little tin god on wheels.

In my case circumstances were aggravated by the fact of • my having no travelling companion ; daily, for weeks at a time, was I thrown among absolutely novel surroundings, with no one with whom to comment upon them in a familiar tongue. From default of natural conversation I perforce grew garrulous on paper.

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